![]() ![]() Since you will have to pull it again anyway, i suggest that you check everything as you tear it apart. there was someone on here not too long ago with something similar, and they found that the pressure plate bolts were not seated. Op, i suspect either an installation problem, or a part vs application issue. Novak engineering also has an informative write up. If you don't believe that, check the FSM which makes it clear that there is normally no contact of the throw out bearing with the pp, until pressure is applied to the clutch pedal. It doesn't take much of a spring to keep it there. bearing to it's at rest position on the transmission bearing retainer. The pressure plate springs drive the throw out bearing to the rear and there is enough momentum from those to firmly seat the t.o. I have done more Jeep clutch jobs than I care to remember. Something keeping TO bearing in constant contact with PP.Ĭlick to expand.The throw out out bearing Does Not continuously spin at all times. Defective TO Bearings (unlikely that 2 would fail so quickly)Ģ. Or maybe new PP is not correct and is taller/thicker than original so when fully released, TO bearing is still in contact.ġ. If all that is 100% correct, the only other possibility I can think of is that maybe your slave cylinder is not fully retracting. There should be no contact between the TO bearing and the PP when the pedal is fully released? There is a spring that is supposed to make sure that happens so make sure the spring is installed properly when reassembling everything. It is possible that when you release the clutch, the TO bearing is not retracting all the way. ![]() Also make sure it slides freely on the front of the transmission before putting it all back together. ![]() If I had 2 aftermarket TO bearings go, I would probably try a Mopar part. You can inspect the teeth by pulling the starter and rotating the engine slowly. Only the first will make noise, the second one will cause the clutch to drag and/or a stiff pedal feel.Starter problem is most likely damaged teeth on the flywheel. The only two problems that can occur with throw out bearings are squealing or grinding caused by internal bearing failure (usually because it has run dry) or the quill (the shaft the throw out bearing rides on) has become scored/rough and prevents the throw out bearing from riding along smoothly. As with most other things (particularily bearings) they will only make nosie when they are under load. The thorw out bearing is only under load when while shifting when the pedal is pressed in. My tranny fluid is fine what else should be checked? I've been told by countless people and a few mechanics its the throwout bearing, cause the dumbass' who repalced my clutch didnt replace it, plus they left a bearing out of my CV joints. Mine does the same damn thing! With the pedal all the way in it is silent, with it all the way out, it knocks. Quote, originally posted by The_Huffster » Start simple and eliminate one thing at a time. Basically with tranny's, you want to eliminate every possible external cause before you open the tranny up. Just out of curiosity, have you checked the fluid level? This is always a good first step. It's been a while since I was in school for this so my terminology may be a bit off, but I hope you understand. When the car is in neutral but the clutch is engaged (pedal up), the primary gear cluster shaft will spin even though none of the synchronizers are engaged so no power will be transferred to the secondary gear cluster. Your problem sounds more like an internal gear cluster bearing. So it will only make noise when the pedal is down (clutch disengaged). This action engages the clutch fork and presses the throwout bearing against the pressure plate's diaphragm spring. The throwout bearing is only turning when the clutch pedal is pressed down. This will not be the throwout bearing (aka release bearing). ![]()
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